Bhutan had cacao neighbours,
but no chocolate of its own
In 2016 there was no bean-to-bar chocolate made in the kingdom. There were, however, cacao farms a day’s drive away across the southern border, and a country with an unusual patience for things done carefully.
We started with a domestic oven, a hairdryer for winnowing and a great deal of ruined chocolate. What kept us going was a conviction that mountain climate — dry, cool, steady — was unusually good for resting cacao, and that Bhutanese design traditions had something to say about how a bar should look in the hand.
Nine years later the method has not changed much. It has only become more deliberate. Every bar still rests three weeks before it is wrapped, and every wrapper is still folded by someone whose name we know.